I am restoring a used aluminum boat [16 feet]. I need help and consultation with it. Please help.?
Jan 24, 2009 by jackie d | Posted in Boats & Boating
I recently obtained a unoriginal boat and am interested in re-flooring it, re-painting it, and adding leather seats. For information purposes, I am a twelve year-old and am working on this draw up with my dad. Also, do you know where to buy stencils for boat names. AKA. Super Snapper? And could I have, if possible, an approximate cost?
O.K.
Re-flooring is catchy straight forward. If the existing flooring is not too bad you could lay three coats of epoxy resin top and bottom to seal and stabilise and give many more years of secondment.
If the floor panels are too far gone then use them as patterns to cut new sections out of good quality ply of similar type or more than the old stuff. Again coat the panels with at least three coats of epoxy to seal and stabilise. I use a wet on wet approach - this is not "wet" as such but I aside the previous coat to gel off and then bang on the next. This allows the epoxy to fully grab the lower layer without requiring sanding between coats - I get at least three coats per day with this method and a specs finish with attention to tipping off the layers with a fine brush to pop any bubbles. I use two pack linear polyurethane as a top cagoule, one or two coats - applied to a gelled but not fully cured last coat of epoxy again eliminates sanding. I sprinkle sugar on the last covering to create a grip surface. How? Well when the finish is fully cured just hose off the surface to break up the sugar! Coffee sugar gives big grip, raw sugar - white sugar - castor sugar down to extra sugar for finer and finer grip. I have used this technique for thirty years or more now, works good with gelcoat too.
I abominate painting alloy boats - aluminium naturally oxidises very quickly and then stabilises to form a possessive 'crust' which is as good as any coating - with the added advantage that any corrosion is very obvious and down-to-earth to fix. If I am going to paint a previously painted alloy hull I would want to remove all loose paint and maybe strip the surface - either with stripper or sanding. If paint is really hanging on then just sand. Then acid further to do with the surface with hydrofluoric acid (phosphoric, citric and other acids work too) USE GOOD QUALITY Sheltering CLOTHING GLOVES AND GOGGLES!
Obviously for a plain alloy hull you can skip the stripping bit.
Then any rot and repairs can be welded. Acid antiseptic all repairs. Rinse hull really well to neutralise the acids. Let dry.
You should then as soon as possible use an etch primer to make a chemical bond with the surface. Etch prime all bare alloy bits that you lack to paint. Etch prime is very thin - it is not paint - you can see through it. If you put it on thick enough that you can not see through it then it is way too much, and won't work. Too expensive to waste it anyway.
When happy with the proviso of the hull you can either prime it, or move to the preliminary top coat. This will depend on what coating system you have chosen. I suggest top end two pack finishes. Whichever system you elect use the entire system - exactly as described in the supplied instructions and you will have few problems, and the total backup and support of the industrialist. Don't expect much help though if you have mixed products or skipped steps - samples can prove comfortably if the finish was applied correctly or not so don't try it on unless you are very certain of your application process!
I have no professional know-how in upholstery or signwriting.
The cost will be what it is. I have done quick jobs for under $500 cash for materials only on this size boat up to several thousand gain including labour. You will get what you pay for, you certainly won't get what you don't pay for.
Email me if you want specific advice.
Ethical luck.
ricsudukai | Jan 25, 2009
O.K.
Re-flooring is graceful straight forward. If the existing flooring is not too bad you could lay three coats of epoxy resin top and bottom to seal and stabilise and give many more years of waiting.
If the floor panels are too far gone then use them as patterns to cut new sections out of good quality ply of similar type or haler than the old stuff. Again coat the panels with at least three coats of epoxy to seal and stabilise. I use a wet on wet approach - this is not "wet" as such but I grant the previous coat to gel off and then bang on the next. This allows the epoxy to fully grab the lower layer without requiring sanding between coats - I get at least three coats per day with this method and a crystal finish with attention to tipping off the layers with a fine brush to pop any bubbles. I use two pack linear polyurethane as a top parka, one or two coats - applied to a gelled but not fully cured last coat of epoxy again eliminates sanding. I sprinkle sugar on the last spread to create a grip surface. How? Well when the finish is fully cured just hose off the surface to melt away the sugar! Coffee sugar gives big grip, raw sugar - white sugar - castor sugar down to frosting sugar for finer and finer grip. I have used this technique for thirty years or more now, works good with gelcoat too.
I flinch from painting alloy boats - aluminium naturally oxidises very quickly and then stabilises to form a shielding 'crust' which is as good as any coating - with the added advantage that any corrosion is very obvious and peaceful to fix. If I am going to paint a previously painted alloy hull I would want to remove all loose tint and possibly strip the surface - either with stripper or sanding. If paint is really hanging on then just sand. Then acid film the surface with hydrofluoric acid (phosphoric, citric and other acids work too) USE GOOD QUALITY Possessive CLOTHING GLOVES AND GOGGLES!
Obviously for a plain alloy hull you can skip the stripping bit.
Then any rot and repairs can be welded. Acid respectable all repairs. Rinse hull really well to neutralise the acids. Let dry.
You should then as soon as possible use an etch primer to generate a chemical bond with the surface. Etch prime all bare alloy bits that you stand in want to paint. Etch prime is very thin - it is not paint - you can see through it. If you put it on thick enough that you can not see through it then it is way too much, and won't work. Too expensive to waste it anyway.
When happy with the outfit of the hull you can either prime it, or move to the preliminary top coat. This will depend on what coating system you have chosen. I suggest top end two pack finishes. Whichever system you select use the entire system - exactly as described in the supplied instructions and you will have few problems, and the total backup and support of the industrialist. Don't expect much help though if you have mixed products or skipped steps - samples can prove surely if the finish was applied correctly or not so don't try it on unless you are very certain of your application process!
I have no professional sense in upholstery or signwriting.
The cost will be what it is. I have done quick jobs for under $500 cash for materials only on this size boat up to several thousand addition including labour. You will get what you pay for, you certainly won't get what you don't pay for.
Email me if you want specific advice.
Actual luck.
ricsudukai | Jan 25, 2009
Lately finished a 16 foot vee bottom. I didn't replace the floor since it didn't have one. We went to a automotive go on a bender supplier. Picked up some Ford gray tractor paint and had color added to it. We got 2 heavy shots of pornographic added. It came out a perfect light blue for the exterior side. It was synthetic paint and rather thick but dries to a actual hard finish and is super shiny. The Wise Company out of Rector Arkansas has seats up for auction on e-bay. Objective about any color you could ask for. Picked up a pair of fold downs for a little over 50 bucks. I picked them up so I avoided the shipping costs. You could also in all probability go to a sign company and get the lettering. Most all have a computer designed lettering program. You pick the type of lettering and what it's to say. Input it and it will let slip the lettering for you and its all peel and stick. Paint was only 8 bucks a gallon and seats were a little over 50 bucks.
squirtspop | Jan 27, 2009
How can you build a boat using aluminum foil, straws, little amounts of scotch tape? Required to hold 31 + kg?
Jul 30, 6523 by physicslover568 | Posted in Physics
Required elements:
1. The boat must detain the weight for 5 seconds without sinking.
2. Boat may not exceed 30 cm x 45 cm
3. Tape may only be used to bind together the straws or to good the edges of the foil, but may not coat the vessel.
4. Something about buoyancy and Archimedes principle.
Any videos would be helpful
Thanks for the servants =]!!!!
-Physicslover586
In out of sequence to keep the boat from swamping, remember that you're going to be displacing 31000 cc's of water. The boat height has to be at least 23 cm to pay for the displacement of water from the load plus the weight of the construction of the boat. To be safe, 30 cm would enough.
Mike | Jul 30, 6889
Can I use a wire welder on an aluminum boat?
May 01, 2007 by lectroman | Posted in Boats & Boating
I have a 10 foot jon boat, with some holes on the runners on the bottom. I was wondering if I could seal the holes, and then use some aluminum hunt for to reinforce it. Is this possible?
Yes a MIG is rectify,use a thick piece of steel on the back side of the weld to absorb the heat. .Make sure you clean the aluminum first to remove the oxidization.Fill it in and toil it down.Make sure you use straight argon for a shielding gas.
gdwrnch40 | May 01, 2007
12′ aluminum V hull boat with title (Nokomis, Fl.) $350 ...
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