aluminum john boat carpeting also bass best lure question?

Aug 24, 2007 by derrik | Posted in Fishing

i have a 14 ft aluminum john boat.has anyone ever seen someone with carpet unswervingly on the boats floor(aluminum its not flat.are do i have to make a deck above floor the put on carpet? also what do u think is the best bass draw in for stained water with lots of stumps in the lake? i like the bandit 300 series fanatic bait in chartreuse color

Use pelagic plywood to create a flat surface/deck but make it removeable in case of access being needed underneath. Shroud it with indoor/outdoor carpet. Easy to keep clean with a water hose.

What's the best way to get spray paint to stick to a floor on a aluminum boat?

Jul 29, 2120 by Steve | Posted in Boats & Boating

I've tryed lightly sanding the best so the paint has a little more texture to stick to and it still wont stay after about 2 months? can anyone help me please?

Have you consideration about putting bedliner material on your floor. It is non skid, tough and looks good.Spray-on or rotate-on works equally well.

Are there any adhesives to bind vinyl to aluminum? Redoing floor in our boat and side rails. Thanks.?

Jul 23, 2008 by ypmkwl | Posted in Boats & Boating

There are areas in our boat that we have need of to bind the vinyl directly to the aluminum rather than to the wooden floor board.
Thanks for those who have answered already. We want to fix sure that what we use will be keep its contact even with extreme exposure to sun and heat and water. Will the 5200 or the contact cement fit this shortage?

Try using avail old 3M contact cement. Rough up the surface of the aluminum with scotchbrite, and then clean with acetone, just before you apply the adhesive.

I am restoring a used aluminum boat [16 feet]. I need help and consultation with it. Please help.?

Jan 24, 2009 by jackie d | Posted in Boats & Boating

I recently obtained a insufficient boat and am interested in re-flooring it, re-painting it, and adding leather seats. For information purposes, I am a twelve year-old and am working on this present with my dad. Also, do you know where to buy stencils for boat names. AKA. Super Snapper? And could I have, if possible, an approximate cost?

O.K.

Re-flooring is moderately straight forward. If the existing flooring is not too bad you could lay three coats of epoxy resin top and bottom to seal and stabilise and give many more years of post.

If the floor panels are too far gone then use them as patterns to cut new sections out of good quality ply of similar type or elevate surpass than the old stuff. Again coat the panels with at least three coats of epoxy to seal and stabilise. I use a wet on wet approach - this is not "wet" as such but I brook the previous coat to gel off and then bang on the next. This allows the epoxy to fully grab the lower layer without requiring sanding between coats - I get at least three coats per day with this method and a mirror finish with attention to tipping off the layers with a fine brush to pop any bubbles. I use two pack linear polyurethane as a top overlay, one or two coats - applied to a gelled but not fully cured last coat of epoxy again eliminates sanding. I sprinkle sugar on the last parka to create a grip surface. How? Well when the finish is fully cured just hose off the surface to wind up the sugar! Coffee sugar gives big grip, raw sugar - white sugar - castor sugar down to reward sugar for finer and finer grip. I have used this technique for thirty years or more now, works ample with gelcoat too.

I hate painting alloy boats - aluminium naturally oxidises very quickly and then stabilises to method a protective 'crust' which is as good as any coating - with the added advantage that any corrosion is very glaring and easy to fix. If I am going to paint a previously painted alloy hull I would want to remove all set paint and possibly strip the surface - either with stripper or sanding. If paint is really hanging on then just now sand. Then acid wash the surface with hydrofluoric acid (phosphoric, citric and other acids toil too) USE GOOD QUALITY PROTECTIVE CLOTHING GLOVES AND GOGGLES!

Obviously for a plain alloy skeleton you can skip the stripping bit.

Then any rot and repairs can be welded. Acid clean all repairs. Rinse hull at the end of the day well to neutralise the acids. Let dry.

You should then as soon as possible use an etch primer to create a chemical bond with the skin. Etch prime all bare alloy bits that you want to paint. Etch prime is very thin - it is not face - you can see through it. If you put it on thick enough that you can not see through it then it is way too much, and won't work. Too expensive to waste it anyway.

When happy with the condition of the hull you can either prime it, or move to the preliminary top coat. This will depend on what coating system you have chosen. I lead one to believe top end two pack finishes. Whichever system you choose use the entire system - exactly as described in the supplied instructions and you will have few problems, and the total backup and support of the industrialist. Don't expect much help though if you have mixed products or skipped steps - samples can prove clearly if the finish was applied correctly or not so don't try it on unless you are very certain of your application process!

I have no professional experience in upholstery or signwriting.

The get will be what it is. I have done quick jobs for under $500 cash for materials only on this size boat up to several thousand plus including parturition. You will get what you pay for, you certainly won't get what you don't pay for.

Email me if you want specific advice.

Good luck.

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